A courtyard fountain seen through an archway in South Africa's Waterford Wine Estate.

The journal

  1. Under Dust and Stars: A Four-Day Horse Trail Through the Klein Karoo

    Outdoors & Activities

    Under Dust and Stars: A Four-Day Horse Trail Through the Klein Karoo

    Riding, for the lucky cohort that call the saddle home, leaves you feeling boundless. Free. Usually, that magical feeling is over far too quickly as the city rushes back in. That was until I did a four-day horse trail through the semi-arid Southern African region known as Klein Karoo. Eight eager, horse-loving riders congregated in De Rust for a mind-altering adventure called Stof en sterre (Dust…

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  2. Whales, Waves & Winter Lights: A Tromsø Travel Guide

    Destinations

    Whales, Waves & Winter Lights: A Tromsø Travel Guide

    Leaving our red rorbu cabin behind, we traded the quiet harbour for the towering fjords and a city that glows in the polar night. We were nervous as we waited for our not-so-humble floating abode to arrive. We'd never done a cruise before and, with an oncoming storm pushing our departure time forward by several hours, we weren't sure what to expect. Luckily, we were met by friendly faces. A…

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  3. Love Letter to Lofoten: A Svolvær Travel Guide

    Destinations

    Love Letter to Lofoten: A Svolvær Travel Guide

    We'd watched Provence change, autumn falling away and winter cloaking the streets' edges. By the time we reached Lofoten in northern Norway, after a long journey via four planes, the countryside was a winter wonderland. The snow blanketed everything, including sound. There was a stillness, a quiet, a deep peace to the land whose soft colours stretched out to the horizon. Even the sunrises and…

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  4. Navigating Norway: The Easy Way

    Destinations

    Navigating Norway: The Easy Way

    I love planning things, especially trips. I'll spend hours looking up flights and possible destinations, finding experiences that'll take my breath away and seemingly make my wildest daydreams come true. But Norway, it posed a difficult problem. When you first dust off your research gloves (mine are in constant use), everything looks magical and incredible. So how do you decide what to include…

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  5. Exploring Aix: A Day Guide

    Destinations

    Exploring Aix: A Day Guide

    Aix-en-Provence was always this semi-mythical place, shrouded in mystery. I knew some things about it, like it was an elegant, tech-forward university city and that, like many Provençal villages, towns, and cities, it boasted several sun-drenched boulevards. I'd never been before, but knowing it was Day 2 of their annual Christmas market and that autumn was slowly making way for winter, I was…

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  6. A Day in Les Baux-de-Provence: Monet, Medieval Streets & Alpilles Trails

    Destinations

    A Day in Les Baux-de-Provence: Monet, Medieval Streets & Alpilles Trails

    The road to Les Baux-de-Provence wound around the mountain, going up, up, up through the rocky outcrop. We hugged the narrow road, with a drop on one side and slabs of white stone on the other. As we rounded another bend, the commune of Les Baux rose above, its ruined castle a crowning jewel. Having explored the charming historical village before, I knew my mum would love it. Our plan was…

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  7. A Flânerie through Avignon

    Destinations

    A Flânerie through Avignon

    Flâneur. Strolling without purpose. Someone who, according to Google, saunters around observing society. It's a concept I know but haven't practised much until last year inRome. So, on a crisp morning between autumn and winter in Avignon, with no planned itinerary and no list of must-see spots, that's exactly what we did. With the historical centre's cobbled streets, winding passageways, and…

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  8. Outstanding Uitsig: An Unforgettable Weekend in a Cederberg Cottage

    Stays & Dining

    Outstanding Uitsig: An Unforgettable Weekend in a Cederberg Cottage

    It was with a heavy heart that I said, "I need this." It came after two deep losses in less than a week. The first was my uncle, Nic Wolpe, who died on 24 August 2024 following a battle with stage four brain cancer. The second was on 30 August when The first horse I ever bonded with was put down. I didn't get to say goodbye to either. Nic's funeral was set for 5 September, the day before we were…

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  9. An Agent of Heritage: Nic Wolpe's Enduring Legacy

    Arts & Culture

    An Agent of Heritage: Nic Wolpe's Enduring Legacy

    Like his favourite fictional secret agent, James Bond, Nic Wolpe had several brushes with death. As an infant, he survived a rare pneumonia he contracted as a six-week-old baby. As an adult, he survived a benign spinal tumour, a heart attack, and a few other near-death experiences. On Saturday 24 August 2024, he passed away after a two-year battle against a brain tumour. He was only 61. Nic’s…

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  10. Rapt: Cape Town's Candyland

    Stays & Dining

    Rapt: Cape Town's Candyland

    When My Sugar closed its doors in late 2022, it left a gaping whole in Cape Town's sweet scene. Where else could you go to get your fun, funky, and flavourful choccie-filled fix? Thankfully, one half of the visionaries behind My Sugar, Kaylah Greenberg, still had some deliciously sweet magic in her and partnered with What Food group, the masterminds behind Truth Coffee. Together, they opened Rapt…

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