Whales, Waves & Winter Lights: A Tromsø Travel Guide

Leaving our red rorbu cabin behind, we traded the quiet harbour for the towering fjords and a city that glows in the polar night.

We were nervous as we waited for our not-so-humble floating abode to arrive. We'd never done a cruise before and, with an oncoming storm pushing our departure time forward by several hours, we weren't sure what to expect.

Luckily, we were met by friendly faces. A couple, who'd gone on the same Reine day trip as us and with whom we'd chatted on and off throughout the day, were also on the cruise, but for two nights instead of one.

The Port-to-Port Voyage

We boarded the MS Kong Harald llater than anticipated but still ahead of the initial schedule. It was chaos. They tried to get everyone checked in quickly so we could depart sooner and hopefully avoid the worst of the storm. We were given our room key, made our way down the hallway (luggage in tow), opened the door and came face to face with another pair of passengers. Due to a system error, a few rooms had been double booked and we were moved up two levels to a nicer room.

There is something wonderfully nostalgic about travelling via boat – the gentle rocking, the low hum of the engine, and the sense of moving through the dark while the world sleeps. Passengers going to and fro, looking around, exploring, and having drinks on the enclosed deck as the rain pelted outside.

We slept well enough, neither of us getting seasick, and joined our friends for breakfast. We feasted, enjoying the smorgasbord offering of meats, cheese, veggies, fruits, granolas, cereals, breads, and fried foods. We pulled ourselves away only to pack, and once the task was complete, we headed to the decks and the moving painting.

Watching the snow-dusted fjords drift past is a morning routine I could get used to. We spent the rest of it bundled up on the deck watching the coast glide by, keeping an eye out for whales and eagles, before docking in Tromsø in the early afternoon.

Paris of the North

Tromsø has a very different energy. After the quiet isolation of Svolvær, the Paris of the North felt busy and energetic. We checked into the Clarion Hotel The Edge, which is perfectly situated right on the water and only a few metres from the ferry terminal.

We settled in quickly and then headed out to explore the area, popping into souvenir shops and strolling freely. Polar night had already arrived in Tromsø; clouds darkened the already black sky but the city was luminous all around us. The main shopping street sparkled with Christmas lights, beckoning to be walked, but hunger took over and we found somewhere friendly, quirky and warm to eat an early dinner.

Chasing the Northern Lights

On our first evening, we headed out for our final Northern Lights Experience with Legendary Adventure. Our chances were dicey but we were hopeful and hopped into the van, bundled up against the wind. We watched the city melt away and the snow thicken around us. Due to the extensive cloud cover, we were headed towards the Finnish border, roughly three hours away.

The journey was worth it. We saw a storybook-perfect fox along the road and about 10 minutes before Finland's border, we stopped. The lights danced above us in quick, rapid bursts. We spent most of our time here, shivering in the wind and munching on chocolate while craning our necks.

Our return was long. We were tired from our cruise and now a long night in the cold. Our sighting wasn't nearly as spectacular as in Lofoten but we didn't complain. Our driver stopped to make us all roadside hot chocolate which was delicious and helped lift our spirits.

Silent Whale Watching cruise

The next morning, dark and early, we embarked on the absolute highlight of this leg: a silent whale watching tour aboard the Brim Explorer.

This hybrid-electric ship is a game-changer for wildlife tours. As we approached the feeding grounds, the captain switched to a silent electric engine, allowing us to get closer to the whales without disturbing them with the roar of a diesel engine.

The experience was incredible. We were lucky enough to see a small pod of Orcas, including a tiny baby swimming alongside its mother. Seeing these giants in their natural habitat felt respectful and intimate. It was freezing on deck, but the boat's warm belly welcomed us and the onboard soup was a welcome treat.

Exploring Tromsø

On our final morning, with a few hours to spare before our flight, we decided to brave the cold for one last landmark. We walked across the Tromsø Bridge, a kilometre-long cantilever bridge that connects the city centre to the mainland.

The views were incredible as we made the crossing in twilight and dusk tones. Ahead of us rose Ishavskatedralen, the Arctic Cathedral. With its soaring white peak and glass facade, it looks less like a church and more like an iceberg. The architecture was as breathtaking as the surrounding landscape.

We reached the other side and stood before it, admiring the way it commanded the landscape. Inside, the massive stained-glass window cast a warm, colourful glow. We wanted to do a tad more Christmas shopping so we took in the cathedral and then made our way back.

Reflecting on the Arctic

Walking back across the bridge, I thought back to our experience. What we'd learnt and what we'd do differently. (We would have swapped the whale watching cruise for a reindeer excursion so we didn't have a late night followed by an incredibly early start.) We loved being able to live in the moment, comforted that someone else was taking care of the logistics.

Norway was an experience, from start to finish. What was meant to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience will almost certainly be a repeat. We've already started dreaming of a trip, in a few years' time, to Finland and Norway's Svalbard island to see the polar bears.